Swirl-Free Car Washing
Wash the wheels and tires first.
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Step 1:
Wash the wheels and tires first. If you splash wheel cleaners or dirt onto your vehicle, you can simply wash it off as you wash your vehicle. Use a cleaner that is safe for all wheels. A product that is water-based and has no corrosive chemicals, which is safer for coated wheels and rubber. Agitate to clean wheels without scratching. Wash each wheel and tire one at a time and rinse thoroughly before moving on to the next one. NOW EMPTY AND RINSE ALL CLEANING MATERIALS. Remember, you want to keep your tire and wheel stuff separate from your paint supplies. This will keep corrosive brake dust off your paint!
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Step 2:
Now you’re ready to wash. Let’s start with clean water and a freshly rinsed container and a clean mitt. It’s important to use a car wash that is rich in lubricants. The purpose of the car wash is to remove contaminants and lubricate them so they do not scratch the paint as they slide off the vehicle. Dish detergents are not recommended because they remove protective coatings.
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Step 3:
Always rinse your vehicle thoroughly before you begin washing in order to remove loose debris. Then begin washing at the top of the vehicle. Wash down the vehicle as opposed to front to back. Remember that the lower panels are dirtiest. You want to clean the windows and the upper panels before cleaning the lower half of the vehicle so that you don’t transfer grit to the top half of the vehicle. Rinse your vehicle frequently as you work, especially in hot weather.
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Step 4:
When rinsing, you don’t have to blast your car clean with the water hose. Free-flowing water (no nozzle) will allow the water to sheet off of your vehicle for a more thorough rinsing.
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Trouble-shooting:
If your shampoo does not produce suds or you have water spots no matter what, you have hard water. Hard water is caused by an overabundance of calcium and magnesium in the water. If you have hard water, you probably also have a water softener for the water coming into your home.
Purpose of Polishing
The purpose of polishing is to remove oxidation, swirls, scratches, water deposits, and other imperfections from the paint. In contrast to a clay bar, which removes contamination, polishes remove surface imperfections. Polishing generally is the single most time consuming step in an exterior detail.
Polishes typically are classified in two categories, a chemical polish or abrasive polish. A chemical polish, sometimes called a pre-wax cleaner, cleans the surface and removes oxidation. An abrasive polish removes a small portion of the clear coat or the base paint itself on single stage paint. Abrasive polishes are classified based on how abrasive they are. The abrasive polish with the most abrasion typically is called a Rubbing Compound. A Rubbing Compound will remove heavier scratches and swirls as well as oxidation. It can be compared to a very fine sandpaper. The abrasive polish with the least abrasion typically is called a finishing polish. A finishing polish is used to remove light oxidation and fine scratches and swirls. It is also used to remove the haze resulting from application of a more abrasive polish. Abrasive polishes work best when applied with a machine rotary buffer or machine random orbital buffer. Different pads are used on the buffer depending on the abrasion level of the polish.
An "All in One" product typically combines a chemical polish and sealant to be applied in one step. A "buff and wax" contains a high level of cleaner and U.V. protectant or carnuba, producing a polish and a protect effect. Unlike a chemical polish or abrasive polish, a glaze does not clean or abrade the paint. A glaze typically contains oils and kaolin to fill and mask minor imperfections remaining after polishing, and to enhance the brilliance of the finish. If a glaze is applied, it is used after use of a chemical polish or abrasive polish or All in One product but before application of a sealant or wax.
Purpose of Sealants and Waxing
Synthetic sealants are polymer based and provide more durability than even the best carnauba wax. They are liquid in form and apply very much like a liquid wax. It is suggested that most sealants cure for 12 to 24 hours before layering additional coats on the paint or applying wax over the sealant. Curing involves the cross-linking of polymer strands. When cross-linking is completed, the product has "cured." Some sealants contain an accelerator, or are sold with a separate accelerator that is mixed with the sealant before use, which speeds up the cross-linking (curing) process. For best results, the surface of the vehicle should be properly prepared for a sealant, which involves cleaning and polishing the paint prior to application. Applying a sealant over a wax or surface contamination may inhibit the bonding of the product to the paint. Once you top a sealant with a wax you will not be able to apply additional layers of the sealant without first cleaning the paint and removing all the wax.
Waxing further enhances the gloss and depth of the paint, and provides even more but shorter lasting protection. Wax comes in many forms such as cream, paste, and liquid. Most waxes contain carnauba which contains a high amount of fatty acids. This fatty acid creates a solid layer between the paint and the outside world which protects it, and gives it a glossy finish. Synthetic waxes commonly mix low amounts of cleaners with high amounts of U.V. inhibitors to create the same protective layer that carnauba does. Synthetic wax creates a high gloss while carnauba waxes give a warm and wet looking finish.
The difference between a Wax and a Polish
WAX - is a protective coating that is applied to the exterior surface of an automobile to keep it from forming "Oxidation". Wax does not protect against bird droppings, acid rain, tree sap, or tennis balls bouncing off the hood. The ONLY reason a wax is applied to the exterior surface of an automobile is to protect the paint or clear coat from forming oxidation. Period.
POLISH - is a cleaning "compound" that removes impurities from the paint which prepares it for "waxing", "sealing", or "protecting".
They are both very different and should not be confused, although, the retail industry has mixed them up greatly in their advertising as having a wax that polishes too. You can't have both at the same time as they both do two separate jobs.
You need to be aware of what you're doing when working with polishes. Polishing agents remove oxidation, surface contaminants and also some of the clear coat surface. If you don't know what you're doing you can create swirl marks on the painted or clear coat surface. Fine polishing agents can create fine swirl marks.
Swirl marks can be hidden or masked when applied with wax but will return and become very visible once the wax wears off.
